A Wine Story

Taste Walla Walla Washington Wines

Above, winemaker David Merfeld of Northstar with chef Tony Lawrence of Philadelphia.

One of the great things about living in Manhattan is that the world comes here to showcase their wines. Yesterday Anthony Dias Blue, who has recently launched the new wine magazine The Tasting Panel, set up a tasting of wines from Walla Walla.

Wines from Walla Walla (each region in Washington has its own climate and microclimate) are known for their freshness, acidity, and fruit.

History

European settlers arrived as early as the mid 1800s but it wasn't until the 1970s that the wine industry began to take shape. Yesterday, I met Woodward Canyon Winery owners Rick Small and his wife Darcey Fugman-Small who have been there since 1975 (wish I took a pic, they were dressed almost identical).

Early winegrowers observed that the unique combinations of soilsand hot days/cold nights during the growing season were ideal for grape growing. The AVA is now home to nearly 100 wineries.

Terroir

Soils are quite varried - this was demonstrated by the diversity of wines. Soils include well drained mineral rich loam, silt, loess, and cobbles deposited 15,000 yers ago by ice age floods. The soils sit atop 15 million year old volcanic basalt that is thousands of feet thick. These soils are excellent for premium quality grapes. Locat4ed on latitude 46, the Valley straddles the line of latitude between the Burgundy and Bordeaux regionsd of France.

My Visit

I only had an hour between meetings, and tried to taste as much as I can. All wines were great, but these stood out:

Northstar 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley .... elegant wine with aromas of raspberry, chocolate, clove, and more. Very bold and rich and smokey, $41.00

Nicholas Cole Cellers Camille Columbia Valley 2004
This wine is 64% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon ... dark chocolate, espresso, and pipe tobacco with fruit and spicey oak. $48.00

Abeja 2006 Chardonnay Washington State
A sip takes you right to Burgundy. Traditional whole cluster pressing, barrel fermentation, and aging sur lie. Only 1,100 cases produced. $32.

2004 Sequel Syrah Columbia Valley
Way too good, and it should be, for $55.00. Deep, dark, rich syrah loaded with aromatic dark chocolate and black cherries. Lush and concentrated.

The tasting was held at Thalassa Restaurant at 179 Franklin ... a gorgeous place. I plan to stop in again.

Oh, and if you don't already go there, please visit my main web site, http://www.AWineStory.com and also sign up in the above right for my monthly newsletter!

Food and sake pairing

Sake is catching on in the United States! This great article (excerpt below) shows different ways that Sake can be paired with food ...  (if you want to learn more about sake, be sure to see my article
on the subject here)

"How to Serve Sake
High-quality sake is almost as complex as wine, but with more subtle flavors. Experts often describe the beverage as fragrant, light, fruity, or dry — ideal for light dishes like seafood or salads. Although each brand has its own unique flavor, sake has the privileged quality of sufficient delicacy to accompany many dishes. Unlike wine, there are no perfect pairings. Sweeter sake, for example, goes well with spicy food and desserts, especially berries and chocolate. Robust sakes has sufficient flavor and body to stand up to light beef dishes. Like wine tasting, however, the final judgment is always up to the drinker.

The Japanese often serve sake at a temperature to match the time of year or the type of food it will accompany. Warm sake is called kan. When kan is heated, the fullness of body and mellow flavor become more pronounced, making this a popular choice during the cooler months or when paired with refreshingly light fare.

Chilled sake is called hiya. Hiya has a fresh, fruity character and is particularly refreshing during warm weather. Some sakes are brewed specifically to serve chilled, to preserve the delicate flavor that heat can destroy. Other sakes are brewed for more versatility, and tend to have a slightly heartier flavor that is enjoyable both chilled and warmed."

Wines from Adelaide

... so today I met Ian Hongell, winemaker with Peter Lehmann Wines from Adelaide, in South Australia.
     Ian -- a very engaging and personable chap -- grew up in the Barossa Valley.

     "At an early age, my uncle asked me what I wanted to do what I grew up and I said make wine," he told me over lunch at The Modern, where the city's top sommeliers and select members of the Wine Media Group came to taste three decades of Peter Lehmann's wines, paired with cuisine from The Modern (Gabriel Kreuther executive chef).

     Ian attended Roseworthy Argricultural College and is passionate about his wines. Prior to lunch, we tasted thirty years of PeterLehmann Shiraz, then enjoyed a 2007 Eden Valley Riesling with Yellowfin tuna and diver scallop tartare (seasoned with yellowstone river caviar) and then had two differnt shiraz wines, a 2002 8 Songs and 2002 Stonewell Shiraz, with the main course of chorizo-crusted Chatham Cod with white coco bean puree and harissa oil.  A 2006 Botrytis Semillion was paried with apple strudel with prune armagnac ice cream -- quite fantastic!

Montes does Napa

... so I'm sure you've enjoyed wines from Chile. Here's a short quiz:

1) What is the up and coming grape of Chile?
2) What weather phenomenon is responsible for great wine?
3) What Chilean producer is increasingly winning lots of awards?

Because many of the wineries were started by wealthy Chileans in the last century who looked to France as a source of culture, many of the wines produced in the region are Bordeaux style blends. However, Carmenere is becoming quite the hip grape. Producer Monte Premium Wines grows it in their two new vineyards in Cochagua, each dramatically different in terms of soil and elevation and proximity to the ocean in Colchagua, Apalta and Marchigue. And the Humboldt Current is the phenomenon that swings cold air from the Antarctic to cool the ocean and provide conditions conducive to quality grapes. Montes Premium Wines,

which makes wine in Chile, Argentina, and Napa, came to NYC to showcase the wines they make in all three areas.

Today,

Aurelio Montes, an owner of Montes Premium Wines, was on hand to give a tutored tasting of the wines along with his son (sharing the same name).

NY's top wine journalists were present, including David Rosengarten and Baroness Sheri de Borchgrave (pictured here) to get an insider's look at how the grape growing and wine making process in each of the regions.

We tasted barrel samples of Carmenere from Montes' two estates in Chile (surprising differences due to elevation, climate, proximity to sea, soil), Malbec from Argentina (ditto), and their new Bordeaux style wine from the new vineyards in Napa. I personally loved the 2005 Montes from Napa, which has the kind of fruit and structure that can see it age for another ten years.

Mr. Montes is charming and passionate about his wine, and through the miracle of modern technology, you can hear him speak about it here in this online tasting seminar (quick registration required). You will hear all about the soil and climate and see gorgeous pictures of his properties in Chile, and also have the opportunity to taste along with him.

Do you like Carmenere? Have you tried Montes'?  FYI, Carmenere is considered by some to be the next Pinot Noir ... check out this thread about Montes' Carmenere on the Wine Spectator Forums.

Cannanou di Sardegna

This is a super great wine that is great for summer. When I was in Venice, I ordered it quite a bit (even though it's from Sardegna). One curious thing about this wine is that the flavors change depending on the producer and season.

At any rate, it's quite affordable and a great match for many foods, especially grilled foods these last days of summer. I came upon this great informative article that tells you everything about the wine you want to know...

Domaine des Roches Neuves

... just tried the Domaine des Roches Neuves at Le Bernardin and have to say it is so incredibly wonderful. Tasting notes include incredible balance, great finish, and though a dark ruby red, a fantastic wine for pairing with grilled salmon.

I had this wine at the elegent five-star Le Bernardin in NYC during a hurried lunch with little time to thumb through the impressive and lengthy list, primarily of red burgundy wines. This Cabernet Franc wine from the Loire (Saumur Champigny) is smooth and balanced, with flavors of blueberries, blackberries, violets, and lavendar. You can read what one of my favorite resources wrote about it here ...

Flavors of Merlot ...

... of course, there are wine shops and there are wine shops. A shop I often visit lacks the upscale ambiance of many featured recently in Zagat's new listing, yet it has these incredibly great-value wines from France. Recently I acquired a bottle of Chateau Heyrauds 2003 (appellation bordeaux controlee) for two digits.

According to the web site, this is 100% Merlot, and you can see the flavor profiles below. Since I'm more of a left bank Bordeaux drinker (Cab Sauvignon territory) I'm surprised that I like it. Interesting, also, to note how many of the "typical" flavors are reflected in this wine including blueberry ("blue fruit," in case you are ever facing an exam) and cocoa/chocolate to be sure. Also plum, spice (in a major way), caramel (if you really use your imagination), and prune (ditto). Also coffee and mint. Try printing this flavor table out and use it when you have your next Merlot.

Blueberry	Plum	Blackberry	Red Cherry
Black Cherry	Grapey	Mint	Chocolate
Cocoa	Cigar Box	Spice	Vanilla
Toffee	Coffee	Prune	Caramel

Affordable French wine ...

...so Beau Jarvis of http://www.BasicJuice.com and I agree (at last). A few months ago, I disagreed with his opinion of Georg Breuer's Spatburgunder (a Pinot Noir from Germany).

Now I see he also tried Chateau La Croix Martell (see below) and liked it. I like it too, though not really enough to blog about it. I came upon his review as I was looking for other tasting notes. However, I am a BIG FAN of wines from Minervois, mostly because I'm frequently a guest at five star French restaurants and everyone is looking at me to suggest a wine(s). As a guest, I feel pretty uncomfortable suggesting anything much more than $100, and at places like Restaurant Daniel most of the Bordeaux wines start at $110 and they are a bit young to drink.

Wines from Minervois are a bit rustic, but it is the new, hot area in France for affordable, well-made wines. Actually, these wines (and Gigondas) are to my taste, but to someone who really appreciates a fine first growth Bordeaux, not quite sure if they'd meet their expectations.

Also, I just opened this La Croix Martell, and it needs serious decanting time. Below is Beau's review from his site:

"I leaf through a small French bistro's wine list and notice a reasonably priced bottle of red wine from France's Minervois appellation - demarcated as a distinct wine region only since 1985.  What the hell?  For 30 bucks, I'll try a new wine & add another notch to my corkscrew handle.

I order Chateau La Croix Martelle 'La Reserve de Sirus' 2001. 

Sniff & Sip #1: Pleasant scents of blackcurrant, cedar and leather.  Fairly basic flavors and structure.

Sniff & Sip #2: There seems to be a slight meaty aroma and the wine's silky smooth tannins appear to be striding towards my tongue's main stage.

With filet mignon & mashed potatoes in a brandy-white peppercorn gravy: Dine-O-Mite.  The wine makes this one of those long, slow, exceedingly enjoyable dinners in which all the flavors compliment one another perfectly.  In other words, while this wine was simply an '87-point' tasting experience when sampled alone, it became a key ingredient to a memorable meal once enlivened by food.

The moral of the story: Numbers on a hundred-point scale and a few vaguely descriptive sentences don't do most wines justice.  Occasionally, in order to create fond culinary memories, an adventurous spirit comes in handy.  This week, try a wine from a region unknown to you.  You might just get lucky.

The Skinny
Chateau La Croix Martelle 'La Reserve de Sirus' 2001(~ $16 - retail)

• Imported by Boisset; 13% alcohol; 40% Cinsault, 35% Syrah, 23% Grenache, 12% Mourvedre
• Deep, black cherry in color with a dusty-red rim
• The wine initially offers scents of blackcurrant, cedar and leather.  After 20-30 minutes of air time, Sirus introduces aromas of meat, black pepper and a touch of funk (compliments of brett)
• The wine is rich and smoothly textured.  Without food, Sirus seems restrained.  Once a steak or roasted game is introduced, Sirus shines.  It accentuates succulent flavor and extends the foods' 'palate time' in the mouth.
• Verdict: Highly Recommended

All that; and only 87 points.

"Polite" Wine Notes

Are you polite with tasting notes? I try to be, even though the producer usually isn't around to read my private notes. In the past, I've never really come out and slammed a wine. Yet tonight, sharing a bottle of Casa de Las Especias (Fote, 2004) with a friend, I was tempted to do so.

Usually I love wines from Yecla. Lots of intense tannins and sun baked black fruit. However, something about this wine really threw a curve. Didn't like the nose and could barely drink the wine. Rather than give you my "polite" notes, let me share some tasting notes I found on the web that exactly echoed everything I experienced ...

"Just when I thought things couldn't possibly get any worse, along comes a Casa de las Especias Yecla 'Forte del Valle' 2004. Scorched sour milk and toasty blackberry jam, yes that's what it smells like. In the piehole it's only marginally better, low acid, purple and reduced-tasting, like wine sauce, then a swarm of tongue-scraping tannins. At first sippage I think 'Well, it's a dumb jam-on-toast kind of wine, but it's okay,' but I quickly come to dislike it with a rather unhealthy passion--the tannins just won't stop trying to commit genocide on my epithelial cells, and the damn thing has a jarringly bitter-n-boozy aftertaste once the blackberry sauce flavor falls away. Blech. If it continues downhill from here I'm spitting the bit and switching to soda. "The soils of ancient seabeds rich in minerals are responsible for these unique wines" says the label, so at least we know who to blame. Where the hell's the TCA when you need it? Awful Despicable."

Georg Breuer Spatburgunder, anyone?

(see more at http://www.AWineStory.com)

So today I finally had the nerve to take the bottle of Georg Breuer's Spatburgunder (what a mouthful) off the shelf and try it in the name of education, if nothing else. Though I never had a German Pinot, it tasted as I thought it would ... light, high acidity, cherry and rose on the nose and palate, and nothing like any Pinot I ever had before.

If you've had a German Pinot, I'd love to hear your thoughts (use the comment feature below).

On CellarTracker.com, one non-fan compared it to a sweet tart. Others said they had a sip and poured it down the drain. Still more swore that though they were motivated by curiousity to try it, they'd never buy another German Pinot.

However, on his Basic Juice blog Beau wrote:

"This Pinot is damn near coral in color - more a dark rose than a red wine.  It offers up scents of just-ripe strawberry, tart cherry and woody spice.  In the mouth, Breuer's Spätburgunder possesses nearly invisible tannins; making for a sheer, silky mouthfeel.  It imparts flavors of red raspberry and cherry, followed by a delicate finish."

Well,  yes, Beau's note is correct. It's just that with all the incredible Pinots in the world (I spent three days tasting them at NYC's Pinot Days) why suffer?