A Wine Story

Understanding the AVA system ...

One of the most challenging aspects of studying for a Master of Wine is memorizing all the AVAs in California, Washington, Oregon, and New York. Sometimes you will find a dozen or more in a single area.

Yet it's true that "terroir" plays a huge role in the flavor of the wine. For years, American winemakers have promoted a competing hypothesis stating that great wines are made in the winery and now they are realizing that this is not the case.

In Europe, the wine laws in EU countries mandate strict adherence to yields, vinification, and other wine growing and making activities, but the U.S. stops short of their rigid rules. Trade Bureau (TTB), and the criteria for TTB approval are:

1. A definition of the boundaries of the proposed area as identified on a U.S. Geological Survey map
2. Evidence that the proposed name was historically used or is currently commonly used for the area
3. Evidence that the growing conditions of the area in question are distinct from surrounding areas

Despite this, worldwide it seems we are entering a "frankenwine" world. Some winemakers like to show the expression of the grape at its finest, but others are masking the grape's flavor with oak staves, chips, and other techniques to "improve" the flavor of average or cheap fruit. Thoughts?

South Central Coast

Sure, you've seen the film Sideways but have you been to San Ynez? I used to go all the time when I lived in L.A. Everything was quite rustic ... especially compared to the sleek showrooms of Napa. In San Ynez, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot grow quite well.  are quite popular. San Luis Obispo county is home to four AVAs, Edna Valley, Paso Robles, York Mountain, and Arroyo Grande.

If you buy a lot of wine in the 40-50 price range in restaurants, turn the label around and you'll notice that many wines are either made in Paso Robles or made with grapes from the area. The weather is quite warm and it's known as an area for less expensive fruit. A few days ago in the Hamptons I had a terrific Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon from there.

York Mountain is small (30 acres) and very cool, well known for growing Chardonnay.

Edna Valley has a maritime climate (influenced by the coast) as does Arroyo Grande. Chardonnay grows well here, in addition to rhone varietals. Arroyo Grande is now producing Pinot Noir.

Central Coast & North Coast AVAs

This AVA is more than 1.5 million acres and includes Monterey County (chardonnay, gewurztraminer, riesling, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit sirah, pinot noir, zinfandel of varying quality. One major AVA is Chalone, producing terroir-driven Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir. Another major AVA is the Santa Cruz Mountains, home of Ridge, Mount Eden, Kathryn Kennedy.

In the future I will discuss all the AVAs in the area, including Arroyo Secco, Santa Lucia Highlands, Mount Harlan, San Lucas, Livermore Valley, San Benito, and San Francisco Bay Area. 

Lake County AVAs

One AVA in this region is Clear Lake (California's largest freshwater lake, and the home of Kendall-Jackson).  You can find a few other major players, but most growers sell crops to producers who make wine with the better-known North Coast AVA on the label. The Guenoc Valley AVA produces very good cabernet, chardonnay, and syrah.

Redwood Valley AVA, Mendocino Ridge AVA, Yorkville Highlands

Redwood Valley AVA is host to many quality vineyards and wineries. It is a cool climate area where grapes mature rather late and are known for excellent balance. Many wineries here are increasingly organic. Popular grapes include Zinfandel, Petit Sirah, Fume Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Leading wineries includ Lolonis and Fetzer.

Mendocino Ridge AVA is based on its elevation. Vineyards must be planted at least 1,200 feet above sa level. The ara is 400 square miles but only a handful of vineyards pass the test for inclusion. Cabernet and Zinfandel grows best here.

Yorkville Highlands AVA

Cole Ranch AVA & Potter Valley AVA

Only 62 acres, Cole Ranch is a single-vineyard without a winery. Grapes (cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, riesling) are sold to Fetzer Vineyards.

Potter Valley has a cool climate and is the most northerly AVA within the North Coast viticultural area. Like Cole Ranch, no wineries are located here. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir are grown on the valley floor and crushed in the adjoining Redwood Valley AVA.

Sonoma Coast

This AVA begins north of the Sonoma County Green Valley AVA (please note, the question "where is the Green Valley AVA located" came up on three exams from major wine education schools, so if you study wine best to memorize it!)

The soil is rock, well-drained, and well-suited to the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that grows well here.

Here's a great map showing the location:
http://wine.appellationamerica.com/wine-review/72/Sonoma-Coast:-Extremely-Attractive.html

Knights Valley AVA

Isn't it nice to have your very own AVA? This belongs to Peter Michael, famous for a Cabernet Sauvignon based Meritage style line called Les Pavots. Meritage, by the way, is the California style of the classic Bordeaux from southwestern France that relies on three major grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbac along with a little Peite Verdot.

The reason Peter's wine is called "Cabernet based" is that it more closely copies the left bank of Bordeaux, which has a larger percentage of Cabernet, than the right bank which has more Bordeaux. It's the warmest of Sonoma County’s viticultural areas so you can imagine the jammy black fruit.

Have you tried this wine? Write in!

Dry Creek Valley

Like Zinfandel? This varietal has been growing here since 1983. Two dozen small producers make wine here, where the climate has cool mornings and intense warm afternoons which allow Zinfandel to develop desired raspberry/black cherry/spicy flavors.

Sauvignon Blanc also grows well here on the irrigated valley floor, with wines developing a classic Dry Creek Style that is crisp, fresh, clean, and typically herbal and grassy. Gallo is located here as well. Other varietals planted in the area are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, barbera, sangiovese, mouvedre (a current favorite for whatever reason) petit sirah, carignan, and chardonnay.

Have a favorite producer? Want to describe a perfect pairing or visit to a winery? Let us know. Better yet, send pictures.

Chalk Hill

Have you bought a $10 plus chardonnay from a wine shop and saw the words "chalk hill" on the label, either as part of the winery name or as the American Viticultural Area (AVA) or Appellation. This region is a sub-ava of the Russian River Valley located in the eastern quadrant of the larger AVA. It's known for its Chardonnay (Chalk Hill Winery, Rodney Strong) because of the distinctive chalk soil, yet increasingly is becoming known for sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot.

Have you tried any of these? Visited a winery? Have wine and food pairing suggestions? Care to comment on this appelation? Please use the comment feature.